It's all about diplomacy. Or the lack of. My sister failed her driving test. I did too the first time, but unlike her, I still walked away with a license. If we were British we could just present our UK license and automatically get a Qatari one. Since the US requires Qataris to take a driving test and apply for licenses in the US, Americans have to do a driving test and apply for a license in Qatar.
There are limited times for women to get licenses. It's all very clandestine, intimidating and frightening to those who don't know any better. I was picked up at 0430 to get to the driving school at 0500. It felt like I was doing something illegal, under the cover of darkness. I joined a few other women and stood in line, freezing, in the dark, until the police arrived at 0530. In the order that we arrived we had to do the 'reading test'. Identify a stop sign on a filthy laminated card of various road signs. That was it. Seriously. After that we waited in little huddles, shivering, until it was light enough to do the 'parking test'.
This consisted of pulling a sharp right into a single parking space on a steep gradient, reversing out and driving forward, all in one movement without stopping or correcting. That was no problem for the new drivers who had attended the driving school, all they do is drill that move into them to get their students to pass the test. For me and the handful of other Americans it was a disaster. Unlike the newbies who wouldn't survive a day on the streets, we'd all held licenses from around the world and been driving for years. Each and every one of us was stopped, told to get out, and that we had failed within seconds of starting the engine. We had one cop yelling at us in Arabic to pull forward, another shouting at us to stop, and another telling us to go back.
I was not about to go through the early morning madness again so as the others stood around complaining I walked over to the row of offices and knocked on the door of the guy with the most stripes on his shoulder. I wished him a good morning, introduced myself, and said that I was there to get a license. I explained that I wasn't sure what was going on but that I believed I had been failed before I had driven at all, that lots of people were shouting at us but that the other English speakers and I didn't understand what we were supposed to do. I asked nicely if it would be possible to have a policeman explain in English to give us a fair chance. He agreed and voilà, we all passed the 'parking' test. We could join the group going on to do the 'street test'.
We had to wait around for another hour until after school traffic had died down and the roads wouldn't be quite so busy. Then a police man jumped in a driving school car and two buses full of us women followed to the designated area, a street of about 1/2 km with three roundabouts one after another. The convoy pulled over onto the shoulder. A women from the first bus got into the driver's side of the car with the policeman in the passenger seat. As she pulled into traffic, so did we. The whole convoy followed her as she indicated, successfully manoeuvred her way through a roundabout, and then pulled over. I had never seen anything like it. The whole thing was repeated with another lady, then another. Sitting on the filthy smelly bus as it lurched into traffic, then screeched to a grinding halt on the side of the road, I was getting ready to vomit. Watching the women taking the test might have been entertaining otherwise. Some used the wrong indicators, some didn't use them at all, some took the racing line through the roundabouts, some pulled out without checking oncoming traffic, some were stopped for speeding and some didn't creep up over 10 kph.
When it was my turn I have to admit I was nervous. The same policeman who had 'failed' my parking test was waiting for me. I buckled up and adjusted my mirrors. Then I asked him in Arabic what he wanted me to do, to show him that I could actually understand him earlier. He answered, in perfect English, "nothing, I know you can drive". And that was it. I didn't even drive. But he signed the paper. And I passed the driving test.